Normally, I don't do guided tours, preferring to stumble my way around various battlefields at my own pace. But when local historian and battlefield guide Martin Galle offered to show me around the Woerth- Froeschwiller battlefield I was happy to take up his offer. I must admit I knew little about the Battle of Woerth (in fact little would be an exaggeration) beforehand, but Martin's expert knowledge of the local area made for a fascinating day. In some ways, the Franco-Prussian War was a dress rehearsal for the 1914-18 conflict. Similarly, it began with a French incursion onto German territory, a war of swift movement which soon became bogged down in attrition and siege warfare. After some early exchanges in the vicinity of Saarbrucken, news reached the French of three Prussian and Bavarian Armies amassing on the frontier. The Prussian Third Army commanded by Crown Prince Friedrich-Wilhelm posed the most immediate threat to French Commander Patrice MacMahon's Army, based at Wissembourg. The impressive town gate at Wissembourg Wissembourg was to be the starting point for our tour of the battlefield. After a two-hour drive from Nancy, I met Martin at the railway station at 10am. It was a cold but bright autumnal morning and we wasted little time in setting off to explore the surrounding area. Wissembourg itself is a pretty Alsatian town right on the edge of the German frontier. First stop on our tour was to be the impressive town gate, which can  be climbed to give observation over the countryside where the early stages of the battle were fought. Prominent in the peaceful rural landscape is the Geisberg Hill where the Prussians gained the upper hand in the first exchanges of the battle. Several sturdy memorials, both French and German, dot the hillside as well as a small memorial stone marking the grave of General Douay, commander of the French 2nd Division whose forces were first to engage the enemy. French Monument on the Geisberg Hill overlooking Wissembourg From Wissembourg, MacMahon's forces fell back several kilometres to Woerth and it was there that Martin and I headed next. Woerth is a most attractive little town situated on the banks of the River Sauer. Martin informed me that many years ago there was a railway  station and three hotels serving battlefield tourists, such was the fame of the battle. Nowadays, there are rather less visitors but plans are afoot to once more put Woerth on the map with a Circuit de Souvenir. Information boards have recently been erected on part of the battlefield relating to French Colonial troops from Algeria, the Turcos, who distinguished themselves with valour. The River Sauer, Woerth Following the withdrawal to Woerth, a lull in fighting followed as both armies took time to regroup. It is said that neither side intended to fight a major battle that day. As fate would have it, however, battle was re-engaged on the early morning of 6th August. What began as a series of small-scale skirmishes near the river quickly escalated into a full scale battle as artillery on both sides opened fire.  By afternoon, MacMahon had been outflanked and overwhelmed by sheer weight of numbers. Prussian and Bavarian troops made swift progress, capturing Woerth and its surrounding villages before advancing on the embattled French forces at Froeschwiller. Here at least, the high ground overlooking the River Sauer gave the French strategic advantage. Bavarian Monument, Woerth German forces, however, enjoyed superiority in numbers and rapid fire artillery that would prove to be the decisive factor in the battle. Around mid-afternoon, desperate French counter-attacks took place; a brave but futile cavalry charge resulted only in mass slaughter under intense Prussian rifle and artillery fire. The cavalry charge did, however, act as a diversion, giving the bulk of MacMahon's forces the opportunity to withdraw as best they could. Prussian troops then advanced into Froeschwiller itself, and despite brave French resistance took the village by 5pm. 
View of the battlefield looking towards Froeschwiller. From the observation platform, you can see the steep ridge Prussian and Bavarian forces encountered attempting to take the village. Wounded from the battle sought refuge in the village church, which served as an impromptu casualty station. The church, along with much of the village, was razed to the ground and rebuilt as a 'Church of Peace' after the war. Although the church was closed at the time of our visit, Martin informed me that the stained glass windows were donated by Crown Prince Friedrich-Wilhelm after the battle. The outcome of these battles was disastrous for the French: losses totalled around 10,000 men killed from a force of about 38,000. Although German losses were similar, superior numbers meant the impact was not so great. Defeat put the French Armies on the back foot, opening the door through Alsace to the Prussian and Bavarian Armies who from here would advance unrelenting towards Metz and Sedan.  Prussian Monument, (1st Battalion 3rd Posen Regiment) Following the battle, the people of Woerth and Froeschwiller had the grim task of tending to the wounded and burying the dead - a task that apparently took 8 days. The numerous mass graves, monuments and private headstones that can be found amid the woods and hills surrounding Woerth and Froeschwiller are testament to the soldiers on both sides who fell during this brief but bloody battle. Most of the memorials were erected between 1870 and 1910. There are so many that  we did not see all of them but certainly had time to visit the majority.
The Peace Church at
Froeschwiller To round off the day, we visited the Musée de la Bataille du 6 Août 1870, situated in the centre of Woerth. Very much a 'traditional' sort of museum, there are excellent displays relating to the battle; as well as the usual weapons, uniforms and personal effects, there is a short film, a number of outstanding paintings and a remarkabl e scale model that reproduces the battle in minute detail. There is also the opportunity to buy books, postcards and souvenirs in the little shop. After an extensive and enjoyable tour, we arrived back at the railway station at Wissembourg about 3 o'clock. The weather was still bright and sunny and rather less cold than it had been in the morning! I said goodbye to Martin and his dog, and we went our separate ways. I set off back for Nancy, driving through the scenic countryside of northern Alsace resplendent in the golden hue of an autumn afternoon.
Entrance to the Woerth 1870 Museum |