It has been described as France's great 'white elephant': a waste of money, men and resources on a huge scale almost unparalleled in history. It failed to prevent or even much delay the fall of France in 1940 (which  was after all its main purpose). Yet it remains a remarkable feat of engineering with a growing number of appreciators who believe that the Maginot Line deserves more recognition for its achievements than it has traditionally received. The Maginot Line reflected France's paranoia after World War 1: the humiliation of the Ruhr Crisis, a lack of faith in the League of Nations and a mistrust of her former Allies led to a growing sense of isolation throughout the 1920's. Fear of another invasion was never far from the minds of French politicians and military leaders. Memorial to the defenders of Fort de Villy la Ferte near the Belgian frontier The controversial plan to build a huge chain of fortifications along the frontier was championed by Andre Maginot, the Minister for War and a former hero of Verdun. In 1916, the French Army had withstood a massive onslaught by superior forces. Her last line of defence - the Forts of Souville and Froideterre - had repelled the German attacks on Verdun, proving that France could fight a defensive war effectively. After the disasters of the Nivelle Of fensive there was no longer any faith in the traditional 'elan'. French military strategy - and perhaps more importantly the French military budget - would from now on be geared towards defence rather than attack. Construction on the Maginot Line began in 1929 and continued until 1940 at a cost of somewhere between 3 - 5 billion francs. Maginot defences near Sedan The main fortified sector of the Line stretched from the Ardennes to Switzerland, connected by a vast network of tunnels and underground railways. Defences included: 108 Ouvrages (fortifications of various sizes); 410 Casemates (shelters and observation posts); 152 revolving gun turrets and 1,536 fixed cupolas; 339 heavy artillery pieces.
For the few brief years of their occupation the forts and galleries were a swarm of activity, containing electricity power stations, water reservoirs, barracks, mess halls, kitchens, stores, workshops, medical posts and so on. Thousands of soldiers and engineers lived what must have been a far from luxurious underground existence. Fort de Villy la Ferte In May 1940, the bulk of the German Army attacked through the Ardennes, simply bypassing the main Maginot defences. Despite being surrounded and attacked from the rear, most of the forts held out until the Armistice. Only one - Villy la Ferte - was captured and only then after the garrison put up fierce resistance in which 104 Frenchmen died. The fortifications then lay more or less dormant until 1944, when there was some fighting around sections of the Line near Metz and northern Alsace.
Le Hackenberg in Lorraine, largest of the Maginot fortifications After the war, the forts were reoccupied and some even modernised throughout the 50s and 60s, but eventually as the political climate changed the French military had no further use for them. By and large, the forts were unloved symbols of a humiliating defeat. Some of the casemates were sold off to local farmers to be used as barns or storage space; a few forts were bought by historical societies, most were simply abandoned and now lie all but forgotten.
Thanks to 'Les Amis de la Ligne Maginot' and other local history associations, a growing number of fortifications have been restored and opened to the public. These include the large forts of Fermont, Hackenberg, Simserhof and Schoenenbourg as well as smaller sites like the casemate of Markolsheim. 
Many thousands of visitors visit these sites each year, testament to the interest that the Maginot Line still holds for many people. In recent years, enthusiasts have mapped and pinpointed the location of many of the 'forgotten' forts, giving hope that yet more of the Maginot Line might be preserved in the future. Fermont is one of the most accessable Maginot Forts and offers a great guided tour Exploring the Maginot Line today is a fascinating experience. The most obvious sites to visit are the large forts such as Fermont and Hackenberg which offer guided tours at certain times. The two-hour tour of Fort de Fermont is particularly memorable; although conducted in French, there are translation cards in English and German so it is easy to follow. The tour offers the opportunity for  an extensive exploration of the fort's galleries, engine rooms, barracks, am munition store (now a museum) and impressive gun turrets. A definite highlight is a ride on the underground railway through the dark, water-logged tunnels, offering a tremendous insight into the strange underground world the 600-strong garrison of Fermont endured. The formidable defences of Fort de Fermont No less interesting is a visit to smaller sites such as the casemate at Markolsheim, situated on the banks of the Rhine near Strasbourg. The casemate has been turned into a museum, its rooms absolutely crammed full of artefacts relating to the fort's garrison. There is a little souvenir shop selling books, posters and other momentos. Entrance is only 2 euros and as a bonus the fort is open all day, unlik e most of the other Maginot Line sites. (Musée Mémorial de la Ligne Maginot du Rhin, Casemate de Markolsheim) A number of restored World War II tanks and other military vehicles involved in the fighting around Alsace are situated in the grounds of the fort; bomb craters can still be seen on the superstructure, a legacy of the brief but intense battle that saw many of the fort's garrison killed or wounded between 15 - 17th June 1940. Many of the less well known forts and casemates lie 'off the be aten track' and caution should be exercised in visiting these sites. Some lie on private property, others are still owned by the military and clearly trespassing in any language is not a good idea. Although the forts are generally sealed, there are ways and means of entering but with serious risks of flooding, unstable roofs, noxious gases and even abandoned munitions this is not advised.
The excellent museum located within
the Casemate de Markolsheim If you plan to visit any of the Maginot forts, please remember that opening times are restricted at most sites, even at large forts like Fermont and Hackenberg. Some forts are only open on an occasional basis and some can only be viewed by appointment. It is highly recommended to check first to avoid wasted journeys. Publications such as the Michelin Guide for Alsace & Lorraine give a good summary of opening times for the main forts. There are also a number of excellent websites where you can find more detailed information. |